How to clean stuff

25 08 2009

Here’s a site worth looking at if you’re at a loos as to how to clean something. While the articles have quite a bit of information, don’t forget to read the comments too, as there are lots more ideas in there too.

http://www.howtocleanstuff.net/

cleaning_equipment-large





7th Etsy Treasury appearance

24 08 2009

I forgot to post that I was in my 7th Etsy Treasury a week or so ago. Again, someone was taken with my green leaf coasters, which are still for sale in my Etsy store.

Here’s the screen shot I took at the time of this gorgeous green collection:

etsy_treasury07





Tighten what?

15 08 2009

From my friend Dave G who said: “Tighten your WHAT? Hell of a name for a vessel full of seamen…”

uranus_ship





Cheap, quick, quilting table

5 08 2009

If you have a large quilt to quilt on your domestic sewing machine, it’s always recommended that you work on a large table, preferably one where your sewing machine can drop down so the sewing area at the same level with the table top. The other requirement is a smooth surface so the quilt can skim over the table top and not get too bunched up or drag.

You can go out and spend $1000 on such a specialised sewing table, but not all of us have a spare $1000 to spend, nor the space to put such a table even if we could afford it.

The other alternative is to think outside the square — instead of dropping the machine down to the table level, why not bring the level up to the machine? Sounds silly, huh? Not if you follow the instructions here: http://shedrum.blogspot.com/2009_01_01_archive.html

With some large sheets of styrofoam, some tape, a knife and a large sheet of plastic, she ended up with a great quilting table — and all for about $18!





Folio

2 08 2009

My friend Whitney suggested a while ago that journal/notepad covers might be something I could make. So a few weekends back I experimented by making Whitney one for her birthday! I wrote this post in July, but it won’t be published until sometime in August, after she’s received her present — I don’t want to spoil her surprise!

It took me about 4 hours to make it — without a pattern and just following my nose and an existing folio I already had. I made it so that it can take A4 and Letter notepads, a spiral bound notepad (slips in to the vertical pocket to the right of the spine), as well as a business card, other small items, loose leaf paper, and, after I’d taken the photos, I added an elastic bit to hold a pen in the spine. The closures are velcro.

So, what do you think? Should I make these? The 4+ hour time frame would mean they’d be expensive, plus there’s at least a yard/metre of fabric in one (at about AU$25 per metre) and about 1/2 metre of Stitch and Shape.

Click on an image to view it full size.





Using magnetic snaps

1 08 2009

mag_catches

When you buy magnetic snaps, they don’t come with instructions! So you either have to figure out how they work (not easy), ask someone who’s used them before, or go to your friend Google and ask it!

I’ve now used magnetic snaps on a couple of tote bags I’ve made. The internet resources I found most useful in perfecting *my* technique (which uses a combination of the techniques from the sites below) were these:

If you’re using ordinary snaps (not the magnetic ones), here’s a tutorial on how to put them together: http://www.gold-fingers.co.cc/2011/05/tutorial-putting-snaps-on-sewing.html





Cleaning fusible glue off sewing machine needles

30 07 2009

Following on from my earlier post about cleaning fusible glue off a Teflon-coated iron, here’s the problem I had with gunked up sewing machine needles and how I solved it with the help of a couple of people on the Etsy forums.

Problem

I’ve been doing some fast free motion quilting on a piece that’s made up of stiff interfacing onto which is fused a piece of fabric. I’ve gunked up (technical term!) 7 sewing machine needles already this evening.

The speed of the needle going through the layers seems to be re-melting the glue on the fusible and sticking to the needle, ultimately causing the thread to snap and the eye and shaft of the needle to become sticky and full of sticky gluey gunk.

How do I clean the gunk off these needles? I’ve tried an orange-based cleaner (which helped to an extent), and am now trying acetone. Any other suggestions?

These needles are perfectly fine otherwise.

Solutions

These options were suggested:

  • Sewer’s Aid: “If you put a drop on your needle before sewing through fusible it even prevents the build-up”
  • Rubbing alcohol
  • Soak in orange cleaner then wipe off
  • Soak in orange cleaner and use a scourer to wipe off
  • Holy Cow (degreaser)
  • Nail polish remover (acetone)
  • Rubbing with a wet rag
  • Scraping off with a fingernail
  • Acetone
  • Put under a flame and wipe clean

What I did while waiting for all these suggestions to come through:

  1. Soaked the needles in acetone overnight.
  2. Wiped down and then scraped with a fingernail and a pin.
  3. There was still a bit of gunk in the eyes and the slot along the shafts of these needles, so I put them in one of those little sort of ‘sonic’ things for cleaning jewellery, then scraped them again. That pretty much got all the gunk off them.
  4. I’ve also ordered some Sewer’s Aid from the local fabric store…

The next day I discovered something else: Leave the fused fabric alone for some hours before sewing it!! I left another piece for 24 hours before starting to free motion quilt it and had no problems with glue getting on the needle, whereas the first piece that caused the grief I was sewing within an hour of fusing. I shouldn’t be so keen and eager!





Cleaning fusible glue off a Teflon coated iron

30 07 2009

Over time, I get a gunky glue build-up of glue from fusible web on the sole plate of my Teflon iron. I try hard to use an applique ironing sheet (which prevents LOTS of fusible disasters!), but sometimes the glue is almost invisible and before I know it, it has stuck to the bottom of the iron. I also use distilled water for the steam in my iron. I never use the tap water because of all the chemicals in it. It can clog up your iron something terrible.

Today I had a spare 30 minutes, so it was time to tackle the problem…

Teflon is not stainless steel, so using harsh abrasives and scrubbers is not the answer. Off to the internet, where I didn’t find many answers. However, I found some, so I thought I’d collate them here for future reference for me and anyone else looking for a solution.

I’ll try each option over time and report their effectiveness here. But first, some options using things I already had in the house (Note — except where stated, your iron must be COLD):

  • Orange oil-based glue remover (De-Solv-It): Smells great, but required a lot of elbow grease and still didn’t remove it in a timely manner. Perhaps if I had more patience…
  • Xylene-based glue remover (Goof Off): Use in a well-ventilated situation with NO possibility of sparks or flames. Highly flammable and toxic to the respiratory system — you’ve been warned! Like De-Solv-It, it worked to a degree, but required a lot of elbow grease and didn’t remove it as quickly as I’d hoped.
  • Acetone (cheap nail polish remover): Same as for the xylene-based cleaner — worked to a degree, but required a lot of elbow grease and didn’t remove it as quickly as I’d hoped.
  • Damp cloth: I wet an old kitchen sponge with just water and squeezed out the excess, then laid it over the sole plate holding it down with elastic bands (you could put it on the bench and just put the iron on it!). After about 15 minutes, I removed the sponge and used my thumbnail to scrape off the residue. It worked pretty well! If you don’t have longish fingernails, perhaps use a credit card or a piece of thin, hard plastic or wood (like a pop stick, orange stick or clean satay stick) on an angle to gently scrape off the residue.
  • Nylon scourer: I took the iron to the kitchen, turned it on to the highest setting, put it on steam, held it over the kitchen sink and pressed the steam button several times. Then I turned off and unplugged the iron. While it was still pretty hot, I used a nylon kitchen scourer to remove the residue (I used a scourer  with a sponge back — one of those thin ones would probably let too much heat through and burn your fingers!) I don’t know whether it was all the other things I’d done, but this worked really well. Next time, I’ll just try this without using any of the other techniques first to see how well it really works.
  • The winner!!! Cheap, easy, and it works a treat!! This from Zzazz on Etsy: I use a soft brush, like an old toothbrush, and some white vinegar suitable for cleaning. It’s amazing what comes off the bottom. Rinse with warm water and dry with a clean towel. It should be good to go after that.

I found these suggestions on the internet but I haven’t tried any of them yet:

  • Baking soda paste: Make a paste of baking soda and water, and scrub with a washcloth. Requires a bit of elbow grease and you have to clean out the steam holes when you’re done. See http://farmgirlheart.wordpress.com/2007/07/17/a-new-purse-and-a-new-tip/
  • Bounce dryer sheets: This tip wasn’t specifically for a Teflon sole plate, but I can’t see that a dryer sheet would hurt Teflon. Wet a new dryer sheet (Bounce brand is recommended, though it’s possible other dryer sheets may work as well), wipe it over the iron and you’re done. I suspect this would work very well for a just-created gunk of glue, not for a build-up of some weeks. See http://forums.marthapullen.com/read.php?f=7&i=189779&t=189779
  • Use an iron cleaner made specifically for Teflon irons.
  • Salt and waxed paper: I think this solution is specifically for irons WITHOUT a Teflon sole plate so read the information on the web forum I’ve linked to BEFORE trying this. I have not tested this and offer no guarantees for its efficacy on a Teflon sole plate. You’ve been warned. See http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20090104073641AA6cmjA
  • Tin foil (!) and other options: A wide variety of solutions is listed here: http://www.blockcentral.com/tips-pressing.shtml

Of course, avoiding the problem in the first place is the best solution so use an applique ironing sheet (or baking paper if you don’t have one), clean off the sheet between each use with a scrap piece of cloth, and have a scrap piece of cloth an old plastic card (like  a credit card) near the iron to scrape it immediately you realise that you’ve got fusible stuck to it.

If only I practiced what I preach! 😉





Finished wholesale order

25 07 2009

By grabbing an hour or so each afternoon after finishing work, as well as this morning (Saturday), I’ve been able to make all 32 coasters for the wholesale order I received last week.

My customer chose two main fabrics from my stash — an orange flower on black, and a cream with a gold paisley pattern. I used a matching backing fabric for each main fabric, and several matching threads for the free motion quilting I did on them. When it came to finishing, I used various thread colours for the satin stitching — each set of four is finished with a different colour (exception: eight of the cream/gold fabric coasters have the same edge finish as that colour matched really well).

For each main fabric, I did one set of four coasters in gold metallic thread. But metallic thread — while pretty — is a sod of a thing to use even with a topstitch needle…

Here are pictures of the finished coasters:

Want your own? Then check my Etsy store for coasters and other goodies I’ve already made.





Another brilliant Simon’s Cat animation

25 07 2009

Cat owners and cat lovers? This is for you!