Second (and last?) cruise

6 03 2024

I’ve just returned from a 15-night cruise with my Mum (92). We went around New Zealand and parts of the east coast of Australia. It was my second-ever cruise and may well be my last! Why? Because despite everything else being fine, the high winds, seas and swells we encountered were NO fun. We were on a small ship (max 684 passengers), but I doubt that would’ve made a lot of difference when you’re encountering waves/swell of 6.2 metres (that’s 20+ feet for those who aren’t metric) and 50+ knot winds. The 6+ metre waves were constant for 2 to 3 days as we were crossing the Tasman Sea, but we’d started encountering bad swells after the first 2 days, with them getting bigger and stronger day after day until the Tasman crossing. After 2 days docked in Hobart, we had the Bass Strait run to do—but that was an ‘easy’ 4 m swell!

Suffice to say, many drugs were consumed, sea sickness bands were worn, and not much sleep was forthcoming. Think of bad plane turbulence where you rise up and are partly weightless, followed by being pushed down in your seat. And then the bang and shudder of the hull hitting the waves or the waves hitting the hull—whatever… Then imagine 50+ hours of that with no let up. It was discombobulating to say the least. I didn’t actually get seasick or nauseous, though I chose to leave the dining room table one night before my meal arrived as I didn’t think I could face it.

But it wasn’t all bad. The places we visited and the people we met were lovely, the daytime weather was invariably good (except crossing the Tasman), the crew were incredibly friendly and polite, while being consummate professionals. The other passengers were nice, the food was good (and way too plentiful), and the ship’s environs were perfect for the demographic (passenger ages appeared to range from 50 to 90, with the 60–75 demographic likely being the majority; the crew were mostly under 40).

We started our adventure with an overnight 7-hour flight from Perth to Auckland, boarding around 2pm and departing Auckland at 6pm. The cruise line we were on (Azamara) tends to sail at night allowing the ships to spend most days in port where we can get a taste of local life. This is a great policy.

Day 2 was spent in Tauranga, with Day 3 in Napier (both on the North Island of NZ). Because we were in the same ports as the massive Celebrity Edge ship (~3000 passengers), I wasn’t able to find any shore excursions for us to do by ourselves so we either stayed on board or caught the free shuttle from the port into town and wandered about for a bit (shore excursions organised through the ship are incredibly expensive and are often in big groups). Napier had their annual Art Deco Festival on, so the place was packed with visitors, locals in 1920s and 1930s clothing, vintage cars, etc.

We then separated from the Celebrity Edge and went on to Wellington (Day 4), while they went somewhere else. We did a half day guided tour of Wellington, before leaving at 9pm for Picton on the South Island. Cook Strait was our first introduction to swells above 2 m, and certainly not the last. After Picton (Day 5) was Christchurch (Day 6), where we did an excellent half-day guided tour of Lyttelton and Christchurch.

From there the swells just got worse. Dunedin (Day 7) was the next port of call and we did a 3.5-hour tour of the bays, beaches and some bird sanctuaries, also seeing some sea lions on the beach.

Day 8 was at sea, sailing from Dunedin around the bottom of the South Island to Milford Sound, where we spent a few hours, though we didn’t dock. By late Day 8 we were in the Tasman Sea and the swells, waves and wind just got worse. Days 9 and 10 were at sea, trying to come to terms with the never-ending movement.

7:30am on Day 11 couldn’t come soon enough—we docked at Hobart where we stayed for 2 beautiful days of calm waters and stunning weather, and a few hours with a friend of mine from years ago in Perth. We left Hobart at 8pm on Day 12, knowing that the winds etc. were going to pick up throughout the night and through Day 13, when we were at sea crossing Bass Strait and heading north to Eden, NSW. Eden (Day 14) was a delightful little town and we did a 2-hour guided nature tour there, leaving port at 2pm. (The photo below shows the damage to the paintwork on the bow done by the pounding we had crossing the Tasman Sea—they repainted it in Sydney.) The rest of Day 14 was at sea, and we pulled into Sydney Harbour at 7:30am on Day 15. Disembarkation was early on Day 16 in Sydney.





No-knead bread in the air fryer

1 01 2024

I wanted to see if I could make no-knead bread in my dual basket Ninja air fryer. Various YouTube videos and websites said you can certainly bake bread in an air fryer, so it was time to see for myself. I used the same recipe I’ve used with much success before (see: https://rhondabracey.com/2020/07/15/trying-again-with-no-knead-bread/), adding cheese, jalapeƱos and chilli flakes to the mix. The dough was quite wet, which was a bit of a concern (was the flour or the yeast too old?). But I continued on anyway, doing all the steps I would normally do to make and prove the dough except for turning on the oven and heating a cast-iron dutch oven.

When the dough was near the end of the first proving stage, I took 2 small foil BBQ trays and made sure they fit the air fryer baskets (I had to turn up the edges and squeeze them a bit, but they fitted OK), then added some parchment paper to each, enough to cover the sides and beyond. When the dough was ready for the final forming into a ball, I added the small cubes of cheese and chopped jalapeƱos, rolled it a bit on a floured board, then split the mix into two, adding one to each of the foil BBQ trays in the baskets. Then let it sit for the final proving. Once that time was up, I cut away the excess parchment paper and then ‘tented’ the baskets with foil to keep the steam in when cooking (make sure you tuck the foil down the sides of the foil trays otherwise it will fly up into the heating element inside the air fryer).

I knew from what I’d seen and read that I might have to lower the temperature a little and almost certainly would need to lower the cooking time. I didn’t preheat the air fryer—just put the foil-covered baskets into the machine, set it to Air Fryer mode, 210C, for 20 minutes. When it finished, I removed the foil tents. Then I tipped the partially baked bread out of the parchment paper and put it back into the foil trays to cook for a further 10 mins (Air Fryer, 210C). It was lovely and brown and crusty, but the bottoms needed more, so I flipped the bread over and gave it an extra 5 mins at the same settings.

All up, I cooked the bread for about 30-35 minutes, which was about 10 mins less than in the conventional oven, and at a slightly lower temperature. The bonus was no need for preheating time (typically 45 mins waiting for a standard electric oven to heat up to 230C).

The verdict? Two small loaves of bread with far more crusty bits than usual! Very delicious!!! Good crumb, texture, and density, but they didn’t rise as much as I expected (as I said earlier, the mix was very wet and so I suspect the yeast or the flour may not have been at their prime, or it just needed more flour—or it could have been the air fryer style of cooking). In the photos below, I’ve included some tongs to you can get some idea of the size of the loaves. And yes that yellow oozy stuff is cheese!

Would I try it again? Yes!





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10 12 2023

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Purging paperwork

1 12 2023

I had a shelf-load of paperwork I needed to sort out. That was the start of a major undertaking!

When I put the tub of that paperwork out in the shed, I saw tubs of documents from years ago and decided to tackle one of them. Just one at a time otherwise it’s too overwhelming! The first tub was personal tax information from 1994 to 2003! I have NO idea why we’ve kept it all these years (by law we only need to keep tax info for 7 years). At the end (about an hour, so not as daunting as I first thought), I’d reduced the first tubful of paper to just a handful of sheets to keep and a mountain of paper to shred.

I found a couple of interesting things in amongst it all—my first-ever invoice from iinet in 1998 for my internet connection (I’m still with them some 25 years later!), an invoice for my first-ever digital camera (a Sony Mavica for the princely sum of nearly $1200 in 1997! Yes, it took 3.5″ floppy discs and was a clunky monster), an old group certificate which showed my gross income in 1995 was some $45K, and a 1997 bill from the Qantas Club offering various membership levels. I think I opted for life membership after this period expired, an option that hasn’t been offered by Qantas for many years now.

I’ve since tackled quite a few more tubs though I haven’t yet started on the business paperwork (I’ve had my business since 1999). And I’ve created mountains of bags of shredded paper! Those 10 L kitchen caddy compostable bags (the pale green ones in the photo above) were running out quickly. But Bunnings had 54 L ones! So I bought 2 rolls (40 bags), and have already filled nearly 10 of them! Three are already in the 240 L FOGO* bin, 1 is partly full next to the shredder, and these 6 are awaiting their turn to go into the region’s compost heap!

My husband, sister, niece and nephews should be grateful I’ve done this now!!!

  • FOGO = Food Organics, Garden Organics, and yes shredded paper is allowed in this bin




When mortgage interest rates were 17%

1 12 2023

I’ve been purging old paperwork from the storage boxes in the shed. And I found this gem today. The struggle was real folks, with the bank saying you will no longer be able to pay your mortgage in the original time frame and offering suggestions for what you could do.

In my case, I got someone in to share my house (and made a lifelong friend as a result!), which certainly took some pressure off. And yes, that mortgage interest rate was 17%!!!! I’d taken out the loan 12 months earlier when it was 13.25% and had budgeted for 15%, but by the time it got to 17%, everything was hurting because my teaching salary was fixed and going nowhere.





Adventures in plumbing

26 10 2023

Back in Feb/Mar 2023, we had our en suite bathroom renovated. The first step in that process was stripping out all the old bathroom fittings, tiles etc. (https://rhondabracey.com/2023/02/13/bathroom-renos-day-1/), and as part of that process, the now-open pipework was capped or covered to prevent things falling down it or smells coming up from it.

Fast forward to September and I started to notice some occasional issues with the en suite toilet and hand basin—the water in the toilet would rise almost to the rim on flushing, then disappear fairly quickly, coming to rest at a lower level than usual in the pan. And while this happened, the hand basin would gurgle and occasionally spit up water from the trap (it smelt of toothpaste!). It was disconcerting to say the least but it only happened a couple of times. But over the next few weeks, it became more regular. So it was time to call the plumbers.

I’d pretty much diagnosed that the issue was somewhere in the line from the en suite to the main line to the septic tank (we’re not on sewerage here). No other areas of the house had flushing or water dispersal issues, and nor did the shower in the en suite—no gurgling from there. When I looked at the house plans (which only had rudimentary and indicative markings for the plumbing), it appeared that the en suite shower was on a different line, which fit with my layperson’s assessment of where the problem was,because there seemed to be no issue with the shower.

The plumbers tried many things to free the blockage on their first visit—plunging the toilet and putting an acid down the pipes to be left for 24 hours. They told me that if that didn’t fix it, they may have to cut out part of the concrete path outside or remove the (new) toilet pan. These sounded like drastic measures! Putting a drain snake down from the toilet wasn’t really an option as it’s motorised and thus very powerful and could smash the toilet or damage the floor tiles. This did not sound like a good option. After 24 hours, I flushed the toilet 3 times and had the hand basin running at the same time—all appeared to be well. Until I had to flush solid matter, and the problem resurfaced.

On the second visit, the plumber they sent (Bryce) was fantastic in trying to diagnose the issue—he tested one variable at a time and tested multiple times to emulate the problem. At one point he removed the trap from under the hand basin and suddenly everything seemed to work well. He thought it was a venting issue because as soon as he put that trap back on, the issue returned. He installed a new trap with a vent on it, but that made NO difference. The problem remained. He asked me about the renos and what was done—I showed him the pictures I took each day, which proved that the strip-out guys and the renovation company had capped all pipe openings and put a large sponge into the toilet water pipe. I doubted it was a problem that stemmed from the renos because the reno had happened more than 6 months ago, and surely any issue would’ve made itself known long before now. Bryce was as baffled as me.

He decided to look for the inspection opening (IO) outside the bathroom window. But there wasn’t one! We discovered that ALL 6 IOs that were on the house plan I had from the previous owners (who built the house) were ALL under the concrete path! Who does that???? I contacted the building company to see if they had better plumbing drawings, but they didn’t. They also confirmed they did none of the concreting/paving etc. around the house—it was all done by the original owner (and he was in the construction industry contractor so I’m pretty sure he did it all himself). I also contacted the Shire to see what they had—they found a 7 page document from the septic tank installers, which had a bit more detail than the house plans, but not a lot. I also spoke with the manager of the reno company—he was as baffled as me and the plumber, especially with the time since the reno—we all agreed it couldn’t possibly be as a result of that.

The weekend came and I continued to use the other bathroom as I’d been doing for nearly a week. First thing Monday morning, the reno manager called and asked if he come and take a look (he’s an ex-plumber) because it had been nagging at him all weekend. He also did various things to try to dislodge whatever was blocking the line (BTW a mop is a handy thing to use to plunge the toilet if the water is fresh), and we talked at length about the possibilities. He confirmed that everything had been capped, and I agreed—I’d watched every step of the process and had photos to confirm this. We both agreed that it was extremely unlikely to be a result of the renos, but as I don’t have kids, grandkids, or pets, there was no way anything else could have got into the pipework other than the usual toilet paper and solid and liquid waste. Also, the toilet is a ‘smart’ one, with bidet functions, so toilet paper usage is far less than for a standard toilet (https://rhondabracey.com/2023/04/02/using-a-smart-toilet-for-the-first-time/). Looking at the plans and using his knowledge, we identified where we thought the pipe exited the house and thus where the IO was likely to be. He said he COULD remove the toilet pan, but was reluctant to do so, except as a last resort, and I agreed.

Meantime, the plumbing company arranged for Bryce to come out again on Wednesday (I was away on Tuesday, and on Monday I was still waiting on plans from the Shire etc.). I showed him the newer plans I had and where the reno manager and I had calculated the pipe exited the house. So he cut a square of concrete out of that section of the path and started digging. And digging and digging. He went down >500 mm and under the sides almost a similar amount (he had to be careful as there was a heavy heat pump for the hot water system [HWS] sitting right next to the hole and he didn’t want to undermine the structural integrity of that piece of concrete). Nothing. No pipe, and you really can’t miss a 100 mm pipe! And because no pipe, no IO. Where was it??? There was no point going deeper as he was already level with or below the level of the opening into the septic tank, and the pipe would have to be higher than that to have the appropriate fall to the septic. He and I were baffled as to where the pipe could be.

Digging the first hole, but nothing found

I came inside and related this to my husband. He said it would be great if there was geophys (ground-penetrating radar) they could use to find pipes underground. And then it came to me—why not listen for the sound of water flushing through the pipe? I suggested this to Bryce and he was willing to try, because he was rapidly running our of options and I was despairing that we’d never find it and get the blockage cleared. He lowered half his body into the pit he’d dug and I flushed the toilet. He couldn’t hear the water (too much ambient traffic noise from the highway) but got me to do it again. This time he put his hand on the sand and felt the vibration of the gurgling! It was about 500 mm to the right of where he’d already dug and certainly NOT where the plans indicated it would be.

Bryce cut another hole in the concrete further along (past the dry floor waste opening and a rainwater downpipe) and found the pipe and the IO! The IO was partially covered by the downpipe’s pipework (who does that??), but that pipe (40 mm?) was flexible enough to be gently moved aside. As soon as he took the IO cap off, he came inside to get me to show what he’d found. There was matter clogging up to the top of the IO—yuck. So he donned a chemical glove and started to remove it. A couple of minutes later he called me outside again—he’d found the culprit! It was a piece of curved and broken off ceramic that looked like it had come from a toilet. And so it was (as confirmed by the reno manager when I sent him the photos). After clearing everything out, we test flushed the toilet many times, along with filling the hand basin to confirm that everything was now flowing as it should.

IO and angles of the pipework where the blockage was

Blocked pipe

We think what happened was that when the strip out was being done, the toilet pan had broken and a piece (not small—it was about 140 mm long) had fallen into the toilet waste pipe before it was capped. The strip-out guys wouldn’t have heard it fall (it was the noisiest time of the whole reno) or seen it in the pipe, and then they capped the pipe, which was later further blocked off with the sponge and then the new toilet was installed over the top of the pipe. It likely lay in situ for a while, gradually moving down the pipe until it hit the (small) angled bend and could go no further. It took 6+ months to do this. Meantime, because of its shape, most waste had gone past it without a problem. Until it didn’t. Once it got to the bend (where the IO was), it lodged there, and while some waste passed it by, not everything did, so there were times when it was fully blocked and so the water backed up the pipework, causing the gurgling and spitting in the basin and toilet. And then it would drain away, to a degree.

The sense of relief at finding the cause was palpable and Bryce revealed that he was at a complete loss as to what to do next if he hadn’t found the IO and that piece of ceramic. My sense of relief was equally as great as his!

I sent photos off to the reno manager—he’d asked me to keep him in the loop. And he and the strip-out people agreed to pay a third each of the bill (I paid the other third because had the previous owners done the right thing, all the IOs would have been accessible).

Bryce filled in the hole where nothing was found and concreted it over again, and put in a cast iron IO box above the IO and pipe, with a removable lid, and concreted around it so at least one of the IOs is now accessible if there are any future problems with that pipe.

You can see from the photos below why he couldn’t just extend the hole he’d already dug (the one on the left)—there was too much immovable infrastructure around it (HWS heat pump on the left, electrical wiring in the metal box, dry floor waste opening, downpipe, electrical outlet, and then the HWS itself. Oh, and we think, based on where this IO was, that the one for the shower is likely UNDER the HWS. Great…

Bonus: I now know more about plumbing, and specifically this house’s plumbing, than ever before!





Back in the groove

6 10 2023

I knew my sewing/quilting mojo would return eventually! I’ve been on two 4-day retreats this year and both times I’ve sewn.

July 2023 retreat

The first retreat was in July 2023, and I did some repairs to a jacket of my Dad’s so it would fit me, added the borders to a quilt top I started 2 or more years ago, made some bowl holders, made a set of 3 bags using fabric I’d created from scraps, and a zipped project folder. When COVID lockdowns were on, I did a class with Sheila Frampton-Cooper where I learned how to sew improvisational curves etc. I didn’t know what to do with the new pieces of ‘fabric’ I’d created, but when I decided to make the bags, that fabric seemed perfect for it. The pattern I used for the bags was Open Wide 2.0 from http://www.byannie.com (https://www.byannie.com/open-wide-2). I learned a lot about working with mesh, soft and stable, Wonder Clips, and zips. I learned even more about zips in the most recent retreat in October (below).

Some of the photos from the July retreat:

 

October 2023 retreat

In the most recent retreat, I ventured a bit further into bag making. Here’s a tip—if you find a locally handmade large fabric bag in a market for less than $100, the maker is LOSING a lot of money. Why? The cost of the materials (pattern, zips, soft and stable, mesh, fabric, bag hardware etc.) was well over $100 and that’s not counting the skills and labour involved (the travel bag alone took me 20+ hours to make, including several hours of prep time).

This time I made another set of 3 bags, a caddy for carrying stuff (e.g. for a baby, for yarn, for fabric, whatever… [https://www.byannie.com/catch-all-caddy-2]), and a large travel bag suitable as a carry-on (https://www.byannie.com/ultimate-travel-bag-2). All the patterns were from By Annie. And I also stabilised a grocery bag for my Mum that was starting to fall apart. I learned even more about zippers, particularly a useful trick for adding zipper pulls to a long length of zipper tape (I can buy it in 4 m lengths, with about 20 pulls in the packet, but NOT inserted onto the zipper tape. See below the photos for this trick!

Zipper tape and pulls

When you buy zipper tape by the metre, you have to add the zipper pulls yourself to create the zip. Fortunately, zipper tape and pulls for bag making are bigger than those for dressmaking, so it’s easier to work with them. And they have plastic teeth that make them easy to cut. There are YouTube videos on how to use a fork for adding a pull, but the technique I was shown doesn’t require any tools. The most important thing is that you have a length of tape that has at least one ‘good’ end—which is where the zipper part finishes and there’s just a fabric end (2 bits) with no teeth. Always preserve the good end and only cut from the other end.

The other critical bit of information is identifying the ends of the zipper pull, which is the bit (usually metal) that goes onto the tape and creates the zip. There are two ends—the flat end (the ‘bum’) and the pointy end (the ‘head’), and there’s the puller itself. You’re only concerned about the heads and bums! If the zipper tape is closed, then you start with the bum end of a pull; if it’s open, you start with the head end.

  1. Go to the good end of the zipper tape.
  2. Make sure the zipper tape is facing up (i.e. the teeth are facing you) and decide if you need to insert the puller bum first (if the tape is closed) or head first (open tape).
  3. For closed tape: Make sure the zipper pull is also facing up. Insert the good ends of the tape into the flat (bum) end of the pull until they won’t go any further. Hold the two good ends and split them apart—this should open the zipper and force the pull down the zip. You now have an open good end, so it’s time for the head end.
  4. For open tap: Again, make sure the zipper tape and pull are facing up. Insert the head end of the next pull into the open good ends until it won’t go any further, then hold the good end and push the zipper pull down the tape. This will close the tape and you’re ready to insert another bum end of a pull.
  5. Add as many of these as you want (I added all 20 pulls, just moving each further down the 4 m length of zipper tape).
  6. When you ready to cut your zipper tape to length, make sure there is at least one pull along that length (some bags require 2), and ONLY CUT from the non-good end. Always preserve the good end as that’s the only thing that makes this technique easy.




Air fryer: Reheating pizza

31 08 2023

I confess—I LIKE cold pizza and will have leftover slices for lunch the following day. But today I decided to reheat 2 slices from last night’s pizza in the air fryer for my lunch. And I’m not sure I’ll go back to cold pizza again! Not when this was so quick and gave a lovely crispness.

For my future reference:

  • Put pizza slice(s) on some baking paper and into air fryer basket(s)
  • Max crisp setting (240C) for 3 minutes ONLY. Any longer and they would have burnt.

Delicious!





Air fryer sausages

24 08 2023

It’s a been a long time since I wrote a blog post, and yes, I’ll get to the air fried sausages soon. After our bathroom renos and my appendix operation earlier in 2023, our world was turned upside down when my Dad passed away. He lived—and died—on his own terms, and while it was an immediate shock, his death wasn’t unexpected. I’m Executor, so there’s that.

Anyhoo…. back to the air fryer… A few weeks ago I decided to bite the bullet and join the revolution and get an air fryer. I realised it was the first major change I’d be making to my cooking practices in 40 years (I bought my first microwave oven in 1982 or 1983). At the time, I paid about $800 for that beast, and it was still going strong when we moved to the country in 2007, but there was NO counter space for it in the house we moved into, so I had to get a much smaller microwave. After 20+ years of faithful service, that microwave went to a new home and is probably still going! Microwaving changed how I cooked and added a new tool to my repertoire of techniques. 40 years on and I expect the air fryer to do the same.

The air fryer I bought certainly wasn’t the cheapest around (RRP AU$499, but I got it for $379), but it had 2 big baskets that could be controlled independently or synched, or matched (if you were doing the same thing in each), and that was a big selling point for me. The model I bought was a Ninja Foodi Max XXXL Smart Dual Zone Air Fryer (model AF450). It’s also very quiet, unlike many others, and puts out very little residual heat.

I haven’t used it a lot yet, but suffice to say that it does frozen chips and meat pies really well! I’ve also used it for pork chops and lamb burgers, and last night I tried sausages in it. They were brilliant!Ā Normally, I’d cook sausages in a frying pan (we don’t have a BBQ, for reasons…), starting with caramelising a mixture of onions, mushrooms, and fresh chillies, then adding the sausages and cooking them on a fairly high heat until they were cooked and the onion mix was fairly mushy. My concern was how to get the caramelised onion mixture right in the air fryer—a few YouTubers showed various techniques, but none seemed to give the result I was looking for, so I decided to try something different—par cook the onion mix in the microwave then add to the sausages near the end of the cooking time. And it worked brilliantly!

Here’s what I did:

  1. Optional: Remove the base rack of basket 1 in the Ninja and place a piece of bread on the bottom of the basket, then replace the base rack. (I learned this bread trick on YouTube, where the presenters recommended it for things like sausages and bacon as it helps absorb the fat, making the basket easier to clean and helping prevent potential smoke because of the high heat cooking off the excess fat).
  2. Put 7 breakfast sausages onto the rack (just a single layer).
  3. Set basket 1 to Air Fry setting for 15 mins at 200C.
  4. Optional: Cut up one onion, half a big mushroom and 3 bird’s eye chillies, put in a bowl and microwave for 30 seconds at a time, for a total of 90 seconds. This par cooks and softens the onion mixture.
  5. At around 7 mins, remove the basket and turn the sausages over/shake them. Replace the basket and continue cooking. (They were looking GOOD! I put in the meat thermometer and they seemed to be cooked through already.)
  6. At around 11 mins, I removed the basket again, moved the sausages a bit, then tipped the onion mix over the sausages, spreading it evenly with silicon tongs, then replaced the basket to continue cooking.
  7. Every minute or so, I checked and turned/re-spread the onion mix so as to prevent any bits possibly burning. (I probably wouldn’t do this as often next time.)
  8. At 15 mins, everything was done. The sausages had a wonderful colour and appearance, as did the onion mix, and the thermometer indicated they were well cooked.
  9. I’d pre-cut the hot dog rolls, added sauce and cheese, so I put 1 sausage and some onion mix in each roll, then put the rolls back into the basket after it was turned off to heat through and melt the cheese (there was still some residual heat), while I finished prepping the salad.

Verdict: They were DELICIOUS and I’d use this method any day over doing them in the pan. My husband said they were the best I’d ever cooked! (he hadn’t been as keen on the pork chops or the burgers cooked in the air fryer). Personally, I don’t think the onions were as sweet as doing them in the pan, but it was only a very minor difference in flavour.

Update: I thought the bread under the rack would’ve have absorbed a lot of fat, but these sausages must’ve been lean because the bread was just dried out on the side facing the heat and had almost no fat. The base of the basket was super clean.





Using a smart toilet for the first time

2 04 2023

Regular readers will know that we had our en suite bathroom renovated recently, and as part of that renovation, we had a ‘smart’ toilet installed (an Arcisan Neion Intelligent Toilet NEO41005; details:
https://www.streamlineproducts.com.au/neion-wall-faced-intelligent-toilet-with-remote-and-arcisan-concealed-cistern).

So, what’s a ‘smart’ toilet? Why did we buy one? And what advice do I have for anyone, like me, who is using one for the first time? Read on… (content warning: I won’t get too graphic, but naturally, I’ll have to talk about bodily functions at times)

Bottom line (sorry!): Would I get one again? Yes!

What is a ‘smart’ toilet?

In a nutshell, it’s a toilet with built-in cleaning (bidet) functions. But unlike classic European bidets (that I’ve read about, but never used), it’s not a separate item in the bathroom that you straddle (facing the wall). Instead, you use it as you would any other western-style toilet, with the cistern at your back.

The built-in bidet functions of the one we have includes settings for women and men (for the anal, perineal, and perhaps vaginal areas only, not for the urethral area on women), adjustments for cleaning wand position, temperature and flow rate of the water, temperature of the drying function, self-cleaning and deodorising functions, and the ability to program different sequences of settings for 2 users (not tried yet). There may be more functions I haven’t tried.

It’s operated by a battery-powered remote control (see image below) and/or a knob on the side of the toilet seat that you push or turn in various directions for the various cleaning and drying functions (I haven’t tried the knob yet).

In the case of the one we have, it also has an built-in night light so that you don’t have to turn on an overhead light in the middle of the night and thus cause your eyes to adjust both to the brightness and then back to the dark as you go back to bed after a middle of the night pee. A light may not be as necessary for women, but it’s very necessary for men.

Notes:

  • None of the functions relates to flushing—that’s still done manually. One of the biggest questions I had when I was investigating the toilets was ‘What happens if the power is out?’ and the answer is that you still use the toilet as per any other manual toilet because the flush mechanism is manual and not connected to the power at all. You just can’t use the cleaning and drying functions during a power outage.
  • The electrics for this toilet had to be hard-wired behind the scenes (there are strict rules in Australia about water and power in bathrooms and how close they can be), and I think the electrician installed a junction box inside the wardrobe of the spare room behind the en suite bathroom. He also added an on/off switch for the entire toilet underneath the light and fan switches inside the toilet (also not used—we just keep it turned on, but if we were going away for more than a day, we’d consider turning it off because you don’t need the light etc. to remain on).
  • This brand/model doesn’t have a heated seat function, which really isn’t necessary where I live in Australia—there might only be a couple of days a year where I’d think that would be ‘nice to have’. Speaking of the seat, the seat and the lid are ‘soft close’, so no worries about dropping the seat in the middle of the night and waking up anybody else.
  • The water usage for the 3-minute (default, but you can stop it at any time) cleaning function is between 350 and 650 mL/min, depending on the flow rate chosen, so between 1 and 1.9 L of water. I haven’t measured the power usage as yet, but when I do, I’ll report back.
Handheld remote control for the smart toilet, showing the icons for each function

Handheld remote control for the smart toilet, showing the icons for each function

Why did we get one?

These smart toilets aren’t cheap—in fact, they cost quite a bit more than a high-end standard toilet, so why did we get one? In simple terms—age.

No-one is getting any younger and the aim of our bathroom reno was to make our en suite bathroom as accessible as possible to cater for us as we age (we’d like to ‘age in place’ in this house for as long as possible).

That meant:

  • having doors wide enough to cater for a wheelie-walker, wheelchair, someone on crutches etc.
  • adding a grab rail to help someone with an injury or disability or just plain wonky on their feet to help themselves onto the toilet or in getting up from it
  • adding a toilet that could help someone who has difficulty twisting to wipe themselves, or little power in their hands to do that for themselves, or who has temporary or long-term continence issues. No-one likes even thinking about the idea of having to help their life partner with toileting, cleaning up after them, etc. And the person this has to be done for may find it very difficult and ‘undignified’ to give control of something so personal to someone else.

One scenario we hadn’t considered was recovery from an abdominal operation and the resulting bowel issues that came with the effects of the drugs, and then the laxatives to make toileting easier so that constipation and straining didn’t cause the surgery to tear and create a hernia. But less than a week after the bathroom renos were finished, I had an emergency appendectomy. I was extremely thankful for the grab rail in the toilet as it meant I could get myself up and down without assistance. I was also extremely grateful for the cleaning functions of the toilet because I couldn’t twist my body easily without the fear of tearing anything, and because the violence of some of the diarrhoea I experienced meant that my bum was red raw, and even the thought of using a very soft toilet paper wasn’t appealing. The gentle warm-water wash of that toilet was a godsend!

Advice for new users

I’ve now been using our smart toilet for almost 3 weeks, so I’m still a new user. I certainly haven’t tried all the functions, but I have settled into some of those that seem to work for me. Everybody’s body and how you sit on a toilet is slightly different, so trial and error is the name of the game for the first few weeks or so. Read the operating manual and try each function—you can’t break it.

Other advice and general comments:

  • The remote control is a bit finicky to respond. I’ve tried hard presses, soft presses, medium presses and still haven’t figured out what the optimum is. In some cases I’ve had to press a button 2 or 3 times before it activates. I’m sure with time I’ll get better at figuring this out, but for someone who has limited hand mobility or arthritis this may be a problem, in which case it may be easier to learn the controls on the side-mounted knob.
  • The remote control is a beige colour and the icons are medium-grey outlines—there isn’t good contrast, and for someone whose eyesight is not particularly good, this could be a big issue as they can’t see the icons clearly. This is a design issue, where the manufacturers seem to have gone for fashion over function. It would be good to have an optional overlay (or a choice of remote styles at the time of purchase or later) so that the contrast is far better than now.
  • When a function is activated on the remote, it beeps and then is lit from behind with a blue LED, which is reasonably easy to see.
  • The lid and seat beep anytime you open or close them, or sit down and cover the sensor. There’s only a couple of beeps and they aren’t too loud, but they’ve been a bit disconcerting and I’d prefer to turn them off, but I can’t find any information on whether I can or how to. Again, I’ll likely get more familiar with them over time and eventually I may not even hear them.
  • For the first couple of weeks, every time I sat on the toilet (even just to pee), there was a noise that sounded like the cistern was filling with water or a motor starting up. I had assumed this was in preparation for the cleaning function, and it was annoying to hear it when I just wanted to pee! However, this got solved a little later once the flushing issue got sorted out (see below) and the noise stopped completely.
  • Flushing: The bathroom reno project manager told us that after we’d had a bowel movement to push the full flush button in and hold it in until we heard the tank fully empty. We did that, but it just wasn’t enough. In most instances, we had to do a second (full or half) flush, which was counter to the idea of conserving water. (For non-Australians: Australia has mandated dual flush toilets for several decades, and over time the amount of water for each flush has also decreased—initially it was 11 L for a big flush and 5.5 L for a small flush, but modern toilets sold in Australia these days are now around 6 L and 3 L respectively, though some are set for 4.5 L and 3 L [see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dual_flush_toilet ]). After we complained about having to do 2 flushes almost every time, the project manager (he’s an ex-plumber) came out and adjusted the float in the cistern—it had been set by default to 4.5 L, so he raised it to the maximum 6 L, and the issue with having to flush twice has gone away (and that refill noise when we sat down has also gone too!). He did say that the government (and industry?) push is for making 4.5 L and 3 L the standard, and he believed that all new toilets would go to that in time. Fortunately, ours was one where 6 L was still a possibility.
  • Usage advice:
    • Remember, I’m still getting used to this, so my advice may change over time. Remember also, that your body shape and how you sit on a toilet is likely marginally different to someone else. Manufacturers do their best to cater for the most common shapes and positions, but they aren’t the same for everybody. You will need to trial the settings and adjustments to find what’s right for you.
    • I initially tried the ‘anal wash’ setting only (the one with the male icon), but found it wasn’t for me. Then I tried the female setting—that was a bit better, but I’ve had to drop the flow rate a tad and activate the oscillation icon to suit me better. No matter which setting you choose, the water flow (even at the highest rate) is comfortable and not at all unpleasant. Same for the temperature (which I’ve adjusted down a tad for the drying function).
    • Because all bodies are different, you may need to wriggle around a bit on the seat or lean forwards or backwards to get the coverage you need. With luck you’ll find settings that can cater for that, over time.
    • You don’t have to let it run for the maximum 3 minutes for either the washing or drying, and you might only want the wash not the dry. It’s completely up to you. You can press stop at any time.
    • The big one: toilet paper! When do you use it (before or after), how much do you use, do you use it at all? Well, of course, there are as many recommendations as there are people. Again, you’ll have to trial this for yourself. A US friend of mine who is a BIG bidet fan, suggests a quick wipe before the wash, while the project manager suggested a quick wipe after (for drying mostly, especially if you haven’t used the drying function). Some say a little before and after. Some website articles suggest you’ll never (or rarely) need to use toilet paper again (some even compare the ‘cost’ in water etc. of making toilet paper with the amount of water and electricity used in operating a bidet once or twice a day—the manufacture of one roll toilet paper comes out as far less environmentally friendly). All state that you WILL use less toilet paper, though few claim you’ll use none at all.

Bottom line (sorry!): Would I get one again? Yes!

[Links last checked April 2023]