Rhonda Bracey: At Random

They told us it would be hot, and so it was. Blisteringly so. It was forecast to be 37 C / 97 F in the shade, so I can’t imagine what it was for the 3+ hours we spent in the direct sun from 1:30pm. Why? Because back in February we booked a ‘Formula 1’ drive for today. It was loads of fun, but the heat and the hot wind spoiled what should have been an awesome day.

Yes, we got the black Batmobile to drive, but because it sat empty in the sun for more than 30 mins, its black vinyl seats burnt through fabric to our skin. The drive was great and we saw some spectacular and rugged parts of the island, but the relentless sun and wind with no cover over the vehicle took its toll and we were more than glad when it was all over. In milder weather, this would have been an experience to remember with great fondness. In fact, Palma is a place I could return to in future, provided it wasn’t in the heat of summer—we didn’t see a lot of Palma itself because we were out and about, but what we saw was nice. And some of the smaller towns looked lovely too. Certainly one to add to the ‘possibilities’ list for future travel—one day didn’t do it justice.

We’d taken a taxi to Peguera, where the F1 tour left from, but couldn’t get one back easily, despite the woman at the tour place trying several times for us. So we skedaddled across the road and caught the public bus back to Palma, for a lot less EU. The bus was air-conditioned so that was a welcome relief from the blistering heat. Even though I was wearing cool linen, the sweat just drenched my dress.

Sadly, this evening we said goodbye to M&D who disembark in Barcelona tomorrow and return to the US (they were on a back-to-back 14-day cruise from Barcelona to Rome back to Barcelona, whereas we were on the next back-to-back of Rome to Barcelona back to Rome). We met them at dinner on the 2nd night we were on board, and have had several meals with them as well as many hours of great conversations. We’ll miss them this next leg.

The journey so far…

Yes, they have special ships that transport other ships (yachts, and there were about 12 on board this ship) around the world

Some of the F1 ‘cars’ (3 wheelers) ready to go

We paid EU10 extra to get a Batmobile. Note the blue sarong I’d bought at Carloforte trying to protect the black vinyl seats from the worst of the sun

There was one main stop along the coast, where we could knock down a couple of very cold drinks and take in the magic views, and try to cool off on the verandah outside

The Batmobile in convoy. Note the lack of sun and wind protection

It was a beautiful calm day for our arrival at Carloforte, which is a port on a small island off the bottom of Sardinia. But it was hot! This was a tender port, which means the ship was too big to dock (or the water too shallow) and so we had to get into lifeboats that took us to the docks.

We’d heard the beaches were great with crystal clear water, but despite waiting in the main street at a bus stop opposite the ferry terminal for 40+ mins in the middle of a normal Friday, we didn’t see a single bus or taxi. So even if we could get to a beach, who knows how we would get back! Short of hiring a car (cost, plus bond, plus credit card required, plus contract only in Italian), scooter or ebike (both too hot), we had no option but to head back to the ship and its pools and air conditioning. (I can see a business opportunity for someone to have a mini bus or two for taking tourists from the cruise ships and the regular ferry from the main island on a loop to and from the beaches.)

We wandered about this pretty little town for an hour or too (there was an open market area under some big shade trees, which was a blessed relief from the heat), but the heat finally got to us. Although it was meant to be 30 C in the shade, it was MUCH hotter walking in the full sun. My $10 ‘el cheapo’ hat is certainly getting used! Oh, and I bought a light cotton sarong as a cover-up, something I didn’t regret later on…

We have an ‘at sea’ day tomorrow as we make our way to our next port.

LOOK at that water—we wanted to jump in right off the ship!!! Tender boat for contrast

Typical street in Carloforte

Market in the shade

The yellow square marks the bus stop in the main road and there was one of the other side of the road too, right outside where the ferries land, but we didn’t see a single bus or taxi the entire time we sat waiting. One person in a shop said there weren’t any taxis, even though the ‘expert’ on the ship had told us the night before that there were and how much they were.

La Goulette is the port for Tunis, the capital of Tunisia. Because I had no clue if my phone and EU SIM would work in Tunisia (it didn’t), we’d booked a shore excursion from the ship today instead of trying to arrange cars, drivers, etc.

Our tour guide was very knowledgeable (he’s a published historian), spoke 6 languages and flitted in and out of each language depending on who he was talking to. We went to some of the sites of ancient Carthage, visited Roman ruins, and then stopped for an hour or two at the pretty blue and white village of Sidi Bou Said (full-on tourist trap with SOOO many people, 80 [!!] tour buses, etc.). At the palace in Sidi Bou said (no longer used), the ship had arranged a nice lunch for those of us on the various shore excursions that included this pretty little town (there’s an ulterior motive in providing food and drink, I’m sure—the last thing a cruise ship needs is for a gastric bug to spread throughout the ship, so by providing us with lunch they could control what we ate and drank, to a large extent). It was very hot, so the ice cold lemon juice drink was especially welcome.

Then it was back to the ship for a welcome dip in the pool followed by a fabulous dinner and great conversations with the two wonderful people (M&D) we’d met on our second night.

Our cruise route so far – Civitavecchia (Rome), Naples, Trapani, and La Goulette

Roman ruins near Carthage

View from the palace at Sidi Bou Said

Ceiling detail at the palace at Sidi Bou Said

Iconic blue and white of every house and building in Sidi Bou Said

We arrived in Trapani on the western tip of Sicily this morning, caught the ship’s shuttle bus into town, but no-one seemed to know where the town centre was. There was no guidance from the bus driver or anyone else, so we followed some other people. Bad move!

We spent an hour or two in the heat wandering about some quite deserted streets to the tip of the point, back past the fishing fleet, then decided we’d seen enough weeds, dead plants, dirty streets and dog poo, so headed back to the shuttle bus. Fortunately a fellow passenger waiting there told us we’d gone the wrong way and the main part of town was about 3 streets over from where we’d started… in the other direction! And so it was.

It was radically different from where we’d walked. Clean, long pedestrian mall, nice shops, lots of cafes, not too many people etc. We spent an hour or so there, then went back to the ship in the early afternoon.

Fishing boat harbour

Long, almost deserted, esplanade heading towards the tip of the point (too many rocks for swimming)

Near the tip of the point there was a pebble and rock area where some people were sunning themselves

Main street, which was a pedestrian mall, with lots of nice shops, cafes etc.

The array of pastries in a cafe where we found a loo!

We opted to use a private car service recommended by a friend to take us to Positano, Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast and avoid the tourists at Pompeii.

Ha! I think the tourists all went to those two places too. SOOO many people!

Such a beautiful coastline that reminded me of Big Sur (California) but with many more boats, steeper hills and drop offs, more lemons, and windier roads. Magnificent scenery. Positano is very steep and hilly and the paths past the tourist traps to the water are long, steep and often with steps (we’re getting used to those now), but it’s not at all comfortable in >36 C weather. Sorrento is quite flat and more a commercial centre than Positano.

We were going to drive through Naples too, but decided one of the ship’s many pools was a more attractive option, so cut our trip short and gave the driver some time off.

Positano: One of the few shaded areas in the streets heading towards the water

The road runs right along this magnificent coast. The geometric shapes on the curve below are sun shades/lounges for the tourists who will flock to the beach.

Amazing views of the turquoise Mediterranean Sea along the Amalfi Coast

Roadside stall selling lemons, oranges and their products, such as granita and freshly squeezed juice